Crabs! We caught three very large males and a couple of really nice shrimp yesterday up in DeGroff Bay! Yes! 
We have to pass through here again on our way out of Sitka so Connor and I reloaded the traps and set them back down again. I just can’t get enough fresh crab. We also collected a nice bucket of clams and are going to try our hand making clam chowder…another first. 
We got to Sitka in the early afternoon and filled with fuel and water. $2.23 per gallon for diesel, the best price yet! I’m glad we’re doing this trip this year instead of last year. 
We got our slip assignment and settled in. We haven’t seen a shore power chord for about a week and a half, so it was nice to turn the freezer on full-tilt, charge up all the batteries including cameras, toothbrushes, etc., and not worry about leaving lights on, etc. 
We walked through town hitting some of the little shops. Val says this is her favorite Alaska town so far and I agree with her. The cruise ships stop here so there’s lots of activity. The dogs love all the attention from the tourists who give them plenty of lovin.’ The store owners frequently have doggie biscuits which the pups are happy to perform for. Cody was craving Chinese so we went to Kenny’s (didn’t know that was a Chinese name) and had a great meal. Then, it was back to the boat for devotions and poker. That darn Cody won again!
We have to pass through here again on our way out of Sitka so Connor and I reloaded the traps and set them back down again. I just can’t get enough fresh crab. We also collected a nice bucket of clams and are going to try our hand making clam chowder…another first. We got to Sitka in the early afternoon and filled with fuel and water. $2.23 per gallon for diesel, the best price yet! I’m glad we’re doing this trip this year instead of last year. We got our slip assignment and settled in. We haven’t seen a shore power chord for about a week and a half, so it was nice to turn the freezer on full-tilt, charge up all the batteries including cameras, toothbrushes, etc., and not worry about leaving lights on, etc. We walked through town hitting some of the little shops. Val says this is her favorite Alaska town so far and I agree with her. The cruise ships stop here so there’s lots of activity. The dogs love all the attention from the tourists who give them plenty of lovin.’ The store owners frequently have doggie biscuits which the pups are happy to perform for. Cody was craving Chinese so we went to Kenny’s (didn’t know that was a Chinese name) and had a great meal. Then, it was back to the boat for devotions and poker. That darn Cody won again!
This morning, I worked the phone and e-mail while the family slept in. Now, we’re going to go get some groceries, fishing supplies (for the fish we can’t catch), and maybe a Subway…I have never been so excited for a Subway! Have a great day!
The gold mine was was much more dilapidated than we expected. It must have been abandoned in the 30’s or 40’s. The old engines looked quite primitive. We did find some of the old ore cars and the kiln where they melted the gold. The rest was just fallen down old buildings, rusted pipes, etc. It was all very interesting but we didn’t find any gold. Nutz! It was great to get out and walk around in the warm sun. 
We got back to the boat at lunch time and fried up the fish we caught yesterday and then set sail. I had expected the westerlies to be blowing up the open ocean but when we got out there, it wasn’t too bad at all. We tried to fish but the swells rocked the boat just enough to throw everyone but me off kilter. Within minutes, Mom couldn’t stand up so she went to go lie down. Cody was laying on the back deck gasping for fresh air (like the fish I never caught) and Connor dove into bed. I, on the other hand, was the only one ready to fish, but avoiding mutiny, I cranked up the equipment and gave up…there’s no salmon in Alaska anyway!
Connor and Tanner are out racing around in the dinghy, giving us a gentle rocking, while Cody and Mom are the last two standing in poker. (I didn’t do so well tonight.) Overall, Cody is leading Mom by one and me by six. Connor is way back in the dust somewhere. Mom promises him a consolation prize to ease his pain. Lucky is snoring under the table keeping our feet nice and warm (and furry.)
This was pretty neat! The hot water bubbles up and in and washes over the edge. We spent a couple of hours soaking, swimming, and exploring. Cody even jumped in the ocean for a second! Brrr! Tanner and Lucky even got to try the hot tub (no worries, they self clean with the constant water flowing through.) Tanner and Connor were totally out of control wild while Lucky, Cody, Mom, and I enjoyed the relaxation. 
Back to the boat, stow the dinghy, pull the anchor and pick our way back out to the open ocean. We ran with the last of the incoming tide with the wind slopping along another few miles to Imperial Pass, which some call the “Outside Inside Passage.” This proved to be a flat route but I nearly got dizzy navigating around the “peppered” islands. My GPS charts aren’t lining up with the real world in this area, which makes things real interesting. But we got to our Klag Bay anchorage about 6PM in fine order. I think we’re about half way between Elfin Cove and Sitka.
I hate to admit that we’re buying crabs and I even felt bad doing it, but we’ve put our stinkin’ pot out every night and come up with nothing! We gave up on the shrimp pot because I can’t get anyone to participate in pulling it up hundreds of feet each time. At any rate, we are getting a lot of good eating in!
Elfin Cove is cool little drinking village with a big fishing problem. It’s a boardwalk community with 10 year round residents. We ate burgers at the little café which had 4 tables. The little community is mostly made up of fisherman and resorts. Everyone was so friendly and gave us lots of fishing tips and navigation advice. We even got invited to a salmon barbecue tonight, where we got to know some of the locals. Val did some shopping in the tiny little store but found enough food to tide us over to Sitka.
Connor met a little buddy on the docks and played with him all day. Cody got his fix “texting” his friends. I got caught up on some phone calls, but no internet, and still got to go for a nice kayak ride around town. We all had a really good day today. It was good to be off the boat for most of the day.
Two more salmon later and we’re back on the boat enjoying fresh baked bread and wild rice soup. Yum. I cleaned the fish, vacuum packed them and stowed them in the freezer. Well, our permit in Glacier Bay expires today so we’re heading out, stopping to do some halibut fishing along the way. The boys got their lines out and I think Connor’s getting bites, so I better get ready to help him.
We were all sitting at the table playing cards when Val spotted a bear right on the beach near our boat. I think it was the same bear that crossed to that island in the morning. It studied us, studied the crossing, and then began to swim back across. Val, Connor, and I jumped in the dinghy and followed it to the other side. He didn’t seem to mind much. Cody was back at the boat with the dogs, so maybe that made him relax a bit. We watched him for about an hour. Just when he went around the corner, a bigger one popped out but he was too skittish and wouldn’t let us get very close. (See him in the piture below on the beach.)
Today, we’re heading back to Barlett Cove. We’re out of water and I need to get back into communications. Wishing you all a great summer day!
We dinghied around a corner and climbed on an ice berg that was bigger than a typical city lot. It was grounded so we felt safe. As we were enjoying this unique experience, the thunder started! McBride roared, and I mean, roared for about 20 seconds! We couldn’t believe it. It had to be a HUGE spire or two that let go. Val was sure God waited for us to get out of there but Cody was so bummed that we couldn’t have seen it. As we got back in the boat and motored away another one must have let go. We could only see the very top of the face but the splash was shooting higher than the top! Whoa! What power! 
As we began our exit of McBride heading back to our boat, the tide had dropped about 10’ and our little entrance was now more like a river float strewn with huge ice bergs, half of them grounded, the other half on full flow, and yes, a third half, crashing and smashing into each other and grounding themselves to a halt. We had to get out amidst all the chaos. I was really nervous dodging ice bergs on full flow that towered above us and ramming ice as big as an ice chest, dinging the prop, and feeling like a pin ball. Val was getting a little excited that I was ramming those ice chest size bergs and grinding the prop but I was not at all concerned about that…I just didn’t want to get squashed like a bug between those big bergs! With the current, there was no turning back. But, thankfully, we made it. We all had huge smiles on our faces and all agreed that this was one of the best adventures yet. 
This morning, it’s sunny, bright, and warm again. Everyday we’ve been in Glacier Bay, the weather has been so totally perfect. We’re so grateful to be able to see so far and enjoy the rich colors and the warmth from the sun.
Yes, today is going to be another great day! I hope it is for you too!
Then we sailed for Lamplugh Glacier. Cody is going to be a senior this year, so we stopped alongside and tried to get some home-taken Sr. pictures. The glacier was amazing but the wind coming off of it was pretty gusty. We’ll see how the pictures turn out. 
We continued on to Johns Hopkins Inlet. When we rounded the corner to head in, it seemed like heaven’s cathedral. The mountains were the most amazing we’ve seen and the glaciers were flowing down from all directions. We plowed our way to within two miles of the face, but it looked like we were within a hundred yards! I was ready to give up as the ice flow was just too thick but the crew convinced me to head for the side. Sure enough, we found a little less ice right next to shore, which was still 700 feet deep! The closer we got the less ice we had to deal with. When we got there, there was a nice big ice-free open spot for us. We got lots of great pictures and video. The wind and current coming from the glacier kept me at the helm but Val shot more pictures of the boys. We were all amazed and thought that this was the most impressive and majestic place we’ve ever been on earth! Thank you for making it, Jesus! 
We ate our lunch in front of the glacier…me with throttle and steering wheel in one hand and sandwich in the other, dodging ice and keeping up with wind and current. The wind kicked up a bit and seemed to spread out the ice flow. Going out was a lot easier than coming in. We picked our way out of Johns Hopkins and headed for Grand Pacific and Margerie Glaciers, about a dozen miles away. Grand Pacific is no longer a tide-water glacier and looks more like a 2 mile wide bull dozer rolling up everything in front of it. Right next door is Margerie Glacier and, wow, a new record…the most impressive glacier again! 
This one towers 250’ above the water and we could motor up as close as we dared. Each spire seemed like a skyscraper! There wasn’t much action as far as ice calving off but even the little ones cracked like thunder. I so wanted to see one of those skyscrapers drop in the water! The wind and current here are amazing…two seconds in neutral and the boat is gone with the wind! More pictures, more smiles, but time to move on. 
At Grand Pacific and Margerie Glacier, we are as far from Orcas as we’re going to get. This was our goal and we made it! Beyond here, the Gulf of Alaska is too scary for me and I don’t think our boat is capable; at least that’s what the insurance company says. My trip odometer says we’re 1,244 nautical miles from Orcas; we’ve burned 737 gallons of diesel, and ran the main engine for 100 hours. So, let’s do the math: 1,244x115%=1,431 statute miles divided by 737 gallons=1.94mpg including the fuel used in the genset and furnace (which isn’t much.) 1,431 miles divided by 100 hours = 14.31 mph including anchoring, whale watching, glacier viewing, etc. I thought this might be higher. But, for as heavy as we ran, I’m really satisfied with that the speed and the economy….thankfully, fuel is about half price as last year. I like $2.27 diesel!
Just as we were leaving Grand Pacific Glacier, it looked like a squall was coming through. It didn’t bother us much, until… we picked up an anchorage a few miles away in a little cove on Russell Island. No sooner did we get the anchor set and the wind began to howl. The beach across the passage looked like a fog bank but it was sand or dust being whipped up into a frenzy. I started the engine again and watched the anchor. We were whipping back and forth on the rode but the anchor held fast. I thought it might just be a quick squall but it made me too nervous so we pulled up the anchor and headed back to Reid Glacier, only about 5 miles away. So, here we are again, right where we started this morning, but it was a beautiful touring day. Now, the grill is going, sun is shining and the winds are settled. Another great day in Glacier Bay, Alaska. 
Cody experienced the highlight of his trip today…we got to climb a glacier. Cody climbed way, way up and came back with magnificent stories on how he slipped and slid up and down the ice. Val tried to follow but gave up quickly and came back with bruises and bloody hands…she fell a couple of times on the rough ice. Cody came back looking like a mud ball. Meanwhile, Connor and I were on a different adventure. We climbed a bit but then turned around and went to the face…we had rubber boots so we could get up nice and close. 
Relatively speaking, Reid is a smaller glacier but what makes it neat is that we could anchor right in front of it and go and play on it. Motoring into the bay, the boys didn’t think it was much of a glacier but once they walked on it, they were amazed how big it really was. Do you see Connor in the lower right portion of the picture below? It looks pretty big to me!
It was another fun day ranked highly by all. Tomorrow we’re hoping to go to Lamplugh and Johns Hopkins Glacier. This is a pretty special place and we all feel so blessed to be here.
Hallelujah! Today, it’s sunny and warm! Shorts on, suntan lotion on bald head, feels like 
After filling our bellies, the crew had to check out the gift shop and the little museum while I checked my e-mails. I’m amazed that even out here we can stay in relatively close communications. At 2PM, we had to attend the mandatory boater orientation course for all the rules, regs, warnings, and advisories. The rangers are all very friendly and welcoming, especially Wayne, who gave me a bunch of fishing tips! He used to work on a flight rescue chopper in this area as a rescue swimmer. I would have liked to visit with him more, but we also want to go exploring. 
After filling our water tanks, we headed out to Berg Bay, our first anchorage. We found a cool little cove and secured our anchor on the first attempt. We’re nestled into a gorgeous nook with incredible views. Mom and Cody dropped Connor off on a little island with his pepper spray and walkie-talkie and then they left to go fishing. It’s so warm! I’m sitting on the back deck in my shorts and bare backed! Yes… finally, a taste of summer. The thermometer says its 76 degrees and there’s not even a hint of a breeze. 
The wind was kicking up a bit so we needed to keep going. Once we got closer to Glacier Bay entrance, we stopped to do some salmon fishing. I caught a little guy but threw him back. While we were fishing, another 25 whales or so came along and fished with us. They got so close, that when they blew, we all thought someone on board farted…it was “whale halitosis!” Cody and mom estimated that they were about 30-50 feet away from us. We could hear them make their snorts and smell their bad breath! We also saw dolphins, eagles, and sea lions munching on salmon. I got some great video!
Just before we reached our anchorage, we decided to fish for some halibut. 16 minutes later, Val caught another 49 lb. halibut! Can you believe it? I knew there was a reason I took her with! (She told me to write that!) She is a fish magnet! (Although, I rig everything, help pull it up, gaff it, clean it, package it, and eat it!) 
We got to our anchorage about 7:30, cleaned the big fish, vacuum packaged him, made crab and steaks, and ate till we couldn’t stand it anymore. It’s still light at 10:40 and everyone is still rarin’ to go! Poker time! See ya later!
Tanner went crazy. He wanted to play with the seals and thought the ice bouncing in the water was some kind of toy. In the water he went! I half expected him to freeze up and sink but no, he wanted to play. We were in the dinghy and he wanted to chase us. Cody called him and called him. He did not want to come in. This dog is crazy! He must be able to tolerate the ice cold water, since we castrated him!?!? (Haha)
We were the only boat around so when I heard another engine running, it startled me. Lo and behold, here came a small tour boat from Juneau pushing in pretty fast along the far shore line. I glassed him and found he was running in a pretty ice free path in the lee of the ice flow. We worked our way through the ice pack with the kicker engine until we found his path. I started the main engine and we motored right up to the face of the glacier!
I had heard that some calving can cause 25' waves. I jumped in the cabin, started the main engine and pointed the bow forward, not knowing what to expect. Well, the worst it got was a couple of big swells, no big deal. I did notice the ice pack was advancing quite rapidly. We spent a few more minutes there getting pictures and taking it all in. When the tour boat started to leave, I hailed him on the radio and asked if I could "draft in" behind him. He told me to tuck in real close as the ice tends to close in quick in his wake. As we started to leave the ice was advancing very, very quickly. I wanted to stay to take in more, but it really made me nervous. It was really nice having the tour boat to follow. He plowed the ice and we got out of there in about 1/5 the time it took to pick our way in.
Cody decided to take the dogs and hike the beach to the creek trail. Connor and I took the dinghy alongside. As we were all progressing, I saw Cody come running towards the dinghy and hear the dogs yelping, half like they’re on a chase and half like they’re being chased! First thought: BEAR! I went to the beach to pick up Cody and we all called the dogs. We heard thrashing around but no dogs. Finally, out comes Lucky and it appears like she’s foaming at the mouth profusely. Upon closer inspection, her snout is covered in porcupine needles. I was relieved that it wasn’t more serious. Tanner hadn’t given up yet but the porcupine was punishing him hard. Finally, he came back to us but he looked like pin-cushion! 
He had about a hundred needles inside and around his mouth. He finally met his match! He patiently let me pull one out at a time. They were in his tongue, his palette, his lips everywhere! He looked like some kind of monster out of horror movie! He was gentle and only yelped on the tough ones. When I got the ones I could, he licked me and was very gracious with his gratitude. Thankfully, I brought antibiotics for the dogs, which they are now on for the next week, while the rest of the needle remnants work their way out.
My memory served us right. It was slimy and slippery and we all fell down numerous times. The old saying is true, “Pride comes before the fall.” Connor was bragging about how stable he was, mocking Cody and I for our lack thereof. The words weren’t even out of his mouth before he tumbled down like a bowling pin. We all busted out laughing, especially Connor. All in good fun, of course. We scratched our way up, often times on all fours, and slid our way down on our butts. It was an exhausting and exhilarating climb. Even though a couple of the log bridges across the cervices had broken, we picked our way up and down and worked as a team lending a hand or pulling up the dogs. It was a great bonding time with the boys and we all had a great time.
About six hours of hard hiking and rowing, we made it back to the beach. Our dinghy was WAY OUT in the bay and the anchor was further out in the water than any of us expected. Now what? Connor, looking like a drowned rat already, graciously volunteered to strip down and go after it, until his big toe hit the water! “I can’t feel my feet,” he shrieked. Cody went in search of a long stick or branch. I threw rocks at the dinghy rope hoping Tanner would understand and go fetch it up. He loved the game but didn’t quite get the concept. The cold didn’t seem to bother him. If only he could understand me. We finally found a long stick and Connor “harpooned” it under the anchor rode and Tanner fetched up the far end and the rope along with it! Sweet victory!
That brings me to this morning. Everyone is still sleeping; even the dogs can’t get up. I’m going to go pull the traps and see if there’s something for dinner tonight!
Monday Morning, June 29, 2009, Thomas Bay –
We loaded up our cooler with crystal clear glacier ice. After dodging ice bergs, we arrived at Ford’s Terror about an hour and a half before high tide slack. The entrance looked more like a white water rafting experience than a safe passage. So, we threw down the anchor and launched the dinghy to check it out. No way! We need to wait for slack tide. Val made some spaghetti and a salad and we stuffed our bellies and watched the entrance with binoculars. We saw ice bergs the size of our dinghy smash against the rocks. The force of the ice and the tides is pretty incredible. Finally, the slack tide let us through the narrow entrance. Although it was narrow, there are granite cliffs towering up into the clouds. It looks like a scene out of Lord of the Rings!
We found our anchorage at the end of the fjord next to a waterfall and a glacier. This place is amazing! There’s not another soul around. It’s kind of eerie and spooky in a beautiful kind of way. Thank you, Lord, for this creation. Below is a picture of our anchorage.
Well, it’s time for devotions and poker. I feel good about tonight…I can’t fish worth a darn, but my poker luck is about to change!