Last night after we left Petersburg, we headed north through Frederick Sound. Wow! It is so gorgeous here! Laconte Glacier looms large over our starboard side. We could see icebergs through the binoculars; we were hoping to get closer but we needed to find an anchorage before dark, especially with the big blow expected. We pulled into Thomas Bay and checked out the Forrest Service cabin that Val’s dad and I stayed at a number of years ago. It is right next to Cascade Creek, which is significant and drops a beautiful waterfall right into the bay.
Just around a point to the south, in the protection of Spray Island, we found a beautiful, little protected cove and set the hook in about 70’ of water at high tide. The tide tonight is a 20’ swing from high to low! I could easily get out 225’ of rode with ample swinging room, keeping us out of the rocks at low tide. For extra assurance, I clipped a 12# downrigger ball onto the anchor rope and let it slide down until it hit the last 50’ of chain. That extra weight should take away any shock of waves up top and give a nice flat pull on the anchor. A curious seal watched the whole ordeal; perhaps, he thought I was invading his space. While quite confident in my ground tackle, I never sleep quite as good while on the hook but I’d much rather be in this gorgeous wilderness than in a marina. Our view is of high, glacier-topped mountains all around with the sound of rushing water dropping into the bay.
Having established our fluid campsite, Cody and I went to set the traps. I’ve been disappointed in the crabbing and shrimping here so far. We’ve had much more success back at Orcas or the Southern BC waters. Maybe, we’re not doing it right. The locals say that fishing has been slow too. They think the salmon may still be coming in and that it’s still plenty early. I hope so. Although we haven’t fished a lot, I was hoping for more. My lovely bride shipped every single package of halibut home leaving us no fresh fish to eat! I really love her. She must have confidence in our fishing ability. I think that means I better go fishing, right? We’ve been busy though, cruising, navigating, fixing, adjusting, pulling hooks out of dogs, cleaning, etc; life on a boat is hard work, no, strike that, fun. Serious fishing is yet to come.
This morning, we all slept in. In fact, its 9:30 and I’m the only one up yet! It’s pouring rain. Today, there’s no let up, no little rays of sun. I was hoping to take the family up the Cascade Creek hiking trail, but Val’s dad and I did it years ago in the rain and it was so stinkin’ slippery, I fell down half a dozen times. So, for now, I’ve got the furnace cranked up, two dog snuggled by my feet, enjoying my morning tea, praising God for this beautiful place, for a safe night on the hook, and for the ability to do this all. I’m so thankful that, if the big blow is happening out there, that we’re much protected in our little mountain-surrounded cove. Lord, is it too much to ask for some shrimp and crab today?
Sunday Morning, June 28, 2009, Thomas Bay –
Wow, did we sleep good last night! Even though we’re still on the hook, I don’t think I woke up once or moved a muscle all night. We were exhausted after our day yesterday….and a great day it was.
Well, the Lord answered my prayer…we now have one barely legal crab and two shrimp to share between the four of us. I think I need to pray for more today. God has blessed us so richly here with the beauty of His majestic creation. I just cannot take it all in.
After pulling the pots with our less than bounteous catch, I came back to the boat and made the family pancakes. It was raining pretty hard but the boys wanted to do the Cascade Creek hike anyway. Val decided to stay back and cozy up in the boat for the afternoon. I warned the boys it was going to be an adventure filled with fun and beauty but would also be cold, wet, muddy, and that, as with most adventures, brings trials. The rules are: no complaining or whining! Armed with our pepper spray, we set off.
Our first stop was the little Forrest Service cabin right in the next cove. Cody actually found the guest log entry Val’s dad and I made…it was August of ’03. We read that we caught salmon, halibut, mussels, and other fish we didn’t know but were tasty. So, there is hope! We also read that it took us 5.5 hours to make the hike round trip. At least the boys know what they’re in for.
Cody decided to take the dogs and hike the beach to the creek trail. Connor and I took the dinghy alongside. As we were all progressing, I saw Cody come running towards the dinghy and hear the dogs yelping, half like they’re on a chase and half like they’re being chased! First thought: BEAR! I went to the beach to pick up Cody and we all called the dogs. We heard thrashing around but no dogs. Finally, out comes Lucky and it appears like she’s foaming at the mouth profusely. Upon closer inspection, her snout is covered in porcupine needles. I was relieved that it wasn’t more serious. Tanner hadn’t given up yet but the porcupine was punishing him hard. Finally, he came back to us but he looked like pin-cushion! 
He had about a hundred needles inside and around his mouth. He finally met his match! He patiently let me pull one out at a time. They were in his tongue, his palette, his lips everywhere! He looked like some kind of monster out of horror movie! He was gentle and only yelped on the tough ones. When I got the ones I could, he licked me and was very gracious with his gratitude. Thankfully, I brought antibiotics for the dogs, which they are now on for the next week, while the rest of the needle remnants work their way out.
We all had a good laugh and continued up to the trail…this time, all of us were in the dinghy. It was low tide so we tied all the ropes we had onboard together and then threw the anchor up on the beach as far as we could, knowing that our dinghy would be floating when we got back.
Our hike up the rushing river was so incredibly beautiful. What looked like a little creek dropping into the bay was actually quite a large river with thousands of feet of elevation drop. It was a wild river/falls and made a thunderous roar as we hiked; even the ground rumbled under our feet. We couldn’t tell if all the water hitting us was rain or the mist blowing off the falls. We all praised God for the beautiful gift He’d given us to enjoy.
My memory served us right. It was slimy and slippery and we all fell down numerous times. The old saying is true, “Pride comes before the fall.” Connor was bragging about how stable he was, mocking Cody and I for our lack thereof. The words weren’t even out of his mouth before he tumbled down like a bowling pin. We all busted out laughing, especially Connor. All in good fun, of course. We scratched our way up, often times on all fours, and slid our way down on our butts. It was an exhausting and exhilarating climb. Even though a couple of the log bridges across the cervices had broken, we picked our way up and down and worked as a team lending a hand or pulling up the dogs. It was a great bonding time with the boys and we all had a great time.
At the top, (at least where we stopped) there was a beautiful alpine lake with snow covered mountains all around and a massive waterfall on the far end. The Forrest Service had a duck boat there so we rowed across the lake right up into the mist of the falls. I cannot describe to you how amazing this site was. The water was so clear. Ice lay around the shore and in the rocks. We stood by the falls while Connor thanked God for this day.
About six hours of hard hiking and rowing, we made it back to the beach. Our dinghy was WAY OUT in the bay and the anchor was further out in the water than any of us expected. Now what? Connor, looking like a drowned rat already, graciously volunteered to strip down and go after it, until his big toe hit the water! “I can’t feel my feet,” he shrieked. Cody went in search of a long stick or branch. I threw rocks at the dinghy rope hoping Tanner would understand and go fetch it up. He loved the game but didn’t quite get the concept. The cold didn’t seem to bother him. If only he could understand me. We finally found a long stick and Connor “harpooned” it under the anchor rode and Tanner fetched up the far end and the rope along with it! Sweet victory!
The dinghy ride back to the boat was freezing cold, especially for Connor. We all stripped on the back deck. Thankfully, mom had the furnace cranked up to 75 degrees. We all took turns in the warm shower (although with only an 80 gallon tank, they have to be “sailor showers”) and then snarfed down anything edible that didn’t take more than a minute or two to prepare! What a great adventure it was.
Warm and full and getting awfully sleepy, the boys convinced us to have our devotions and poker game in the Forrest Service cabin. I grabbed the lantern and we dinghied over. This cabin reminds me of the one described in the book, “The Shack.” We got there, built a raging fire in the stove, and spent some time in family devotions, before the nightly poker game. Connor went all in and all out almost immediately so he got put in charge of firewood duty. I couldn’t keep my eyes open any longer so I went all in and all out almost as quickly. The cabin quickly warmed up to what felt like 90 degrees so Connor and I jumped in the dinghy, flew back to the boat, loaded up all the wet dirty clothes from the hike, and got them hung up in that nice, warm cabin overnight. Turns out, Cody won the poker game again. So, for the summer, Cody is still number one, followed by me, then mom, then Connor, but it’s still anybody’s game. 
That brings me to this morning. Everyone is still sleeping; even the dogs can’t get up. I’m going to go pull the traps and see if there’s something for dinner tonight!
Monday Morning, June 29, 2009, Thomas Bay –
That brings me to this morning. Everyone is still sleeping; even the dogs can’t get up. I’m going to go pull the traps and see if there’s something for dinner tonight!
Monday Morning, June 29, 2009, Thomas Bay –Today is a cruising day so everyone is up and at it! Cody pulls the traps, Connor stows the dinghy, mom cleans and packs, Dad prepares navigation and anchor stowage.
Yesterday, I pulled the crab trap and had two more males! Val and I took the dinghy fishing but didn’t have any luck so we went exploring. We drove up to Baird Glacier in Thomas Bay. We saw many whales and seals. It was beautiful but very cold!
After we got back, very chilled, we went to The Shack, stoked the fire, and warmed up a bit. The boys were busy on the boat doing their school and reading. We all loaded up the dinghy and headed back to The Shack for our nightly routine: devotions, dinner, and poker. I fried up some chicken, while the boys chopped some wood. We all love that little shack. Val won the poker game.
All in all, it was another great day in this beautiful land. I gotta go…the boys are done with their work and it’s time to pull the anchor. Have a great day!
Monday Evening, June 29, 2009, Ford’s Terror –
We all hated to leave our little anchorage in Thomas Bay…with the beauty and The Shack, our three nights there seemed way to short, but we’ve got our permit in Glacier Bay on July 4th so we need to keep moving. I can’t believe there would be a more beautiful anchorage but we just found one! We are in Ford’s Terror in Endicott Arm. We travelled about 75 miles today, stopping to Halibut Fish and Salmon Fish…no luck! Thankfully, Cody pulled up two more crab and nine more nice shrimp this morning. I must say that I thought we’d have more fish in the cooler by now. Maybe God is saving the best for later?!?
We saw a lot of humpback whales today, mostly at a distance but we did see some close ups but not close enough or long enough to photograph. It’s easy to see their blows from about a mile away. They are amazing creatures. We also saw a lot of dolphins hunting…they just fly…they’re so amazingly fast. They remind me of a fast-paced hockey game.
It rains all the time, it seems. Today, we actually saw the sun for about half an hour and went from chilly to instantly hot…it was so wonderful. Around the glaciers, it gets really cold. Our diesel furnace works great and keeps everything nice and dry.
We picked our way through ice bergs to get here. Some of them were as big as a house! 
We loaded up our cooler with crystal clear glacier ice. After dodging ice bergs, we arrived at Ford’s Terror about an hour and a half before high tide slack. The entrance looked more like a white water rafting experience than a safe passage. So, we threw down the anchor and launched the dinghy to check it out. No way! We need to wait for slack tide. Val made some spaghetti and a salad and we stuffed our bellies and watched the entrance with binoculars. We saw ice bergs the size of our dinghy smash against the rocks. The force of the ice and the tides is pretty incredible. Finally, the slack tide let us through the narrow entrance. Although it was narrow, there are granite cliffs towering up into the clouds. It looks like a scene out of Lord of the Rings!
We found our anchorage at the end of the fjord next to a waterfall and a glacier. This place is amazing! There’s not another soul around. It’s kind of eerie and spooky in a beautiful kind of way. Thank you, Lord, for this creation. Below is a picture of our anchorage.
Well, it’s time for devotions and poker. I feel good about tonight…I can’t fish worth a darn, but my poker luck is about to change!
We loaded up our cooler with crystal clear glacier ice. After dodging ice bergs, we arrived at Ford’s Terror about an hour and a half before high tide slack. The entrance looked more like a white water rafting experience than a safe passage. So, we threw down the anchor and launched the dinghy to check it out. No way! We need to wait for slack tide. Val made some spaghetti and a salad and we stuffed our bellies and watched the entrance with binoculars. We saw ice bergs the size of our dinghy smash against the rocks. The force of the ice and the tides is pretty incredible. Finally, the slack tide let us through the narrow entrance. Although it was narrow, there are granite cliffs towering up into the clouds. It looks like a scene out of Lord of the Rings!
We found our anchorage at the end of the fjord next to a waterfall and a glacier. This place is amazing! There’s not another soul around. It’s kind of eerie and spooky in a beautiful kind of way. Thank you, Lord, for this creation. Below is a picture of our anchorage.Well, it’s time for devotions and poker. I feel good about tonight…I can’t fish worth a darn, but my poker luck is about to change!
I set the crab and shrimp traps while Val grilled steaks. The dogs went to shore for some exercise and necessary duties. It was such a beautiful sunset with the snowy mountains, intermittent sun and showers. The beauty here is breath-taking and just makes me want to sing praises to the Creator. 
This morning, we woke up to warm sunshine, a rarity so far this trip. It seems it rains for 20 minutes, a few rays of sun and then clouds up again to start the cycle all over again. The highs have been close to 60 degrees generally; all in all, nice sweatshirt weather. I thought I’d be wearing more shorts. We’re all going to look pretty white at the end of summer!
The Stikine River delta turned the water muddy brown and it was almost like a line in the water. That was kind of freaky after driving through amazingly clean water. After lunch, we set sail for Petersburg, traversing the Wrangell Narrows. Then we took on some fuel and water in Petersburg, picked up some ice for the fish I hope to catch and Val got some groceries. We’re hoping to wait out a blow in Thomas Bay in Frederick Sound for a couple of days. I’m ready to get lazy, sleep in, go hiking, etc. Val’s Dad and I were here a number of years ago in 15’ Lund fishing boat, a harrowing experience to say the least. I feel a lot more comfortable in our “Dakota Roamer.”
It couldn't have been more than 45 minutes later and Val goes and hooks Moby Dick. She screamed for help and we all had to give her a break from the battle. I must admit, it was a tough pull. When we'd get it up a couple feet it would make a run back down. This was a BIG fish! The battle went on for about 20 minutes before we saw it. It was 5' long! I tried to gaff hook it but the moment the gaff went into his flesh, he fought and twisted and about ripped my arm off. I had the gaff chord around my wrist and I thought he was going to break my arm or pull me in so I tried to get the chord off. Thankfully, I did but one more wild twist by the beast and gaff hook went flying out in the ocean and Moby headed straight for the bottom again. Now what? How re we going to land this thing?
We all took turns pulling and cranking but the second time he came up easier. I took the boat hook (used to catch docks and push off pilings, etc.) and tried to stick a rope on the end thinking I could shove it down his mouth and through his gills and then cleat him to the boat. He didn't like that idea very well. We tried for 6 times to get that boat hook into him but each time he thrashed and twisted and down he'd go again, but each time coming up quicker and easier. Tow eyelets snapped off the fishing pole and I was expecting the line to bust at any moment. Val kept the line taught and Cody helped guide that big mouth right to the top. Finally, I gave up on the rope idea and rammed the boat hook as hard as I could right down his throat....it sunk about 2 feet into him it seems. I gave it a twist, rather, he did it for me and he was mine! Cody and I had all we could do to lift him into the boat. Hugs and high fives around! What an adrenaline rush! This was by far the biggest fish any of us had ever caught and nearly ever seen!
About an hour later, we arrive in Ketchikan and took up a slip right beside all the big cruise ships. Town is crazy busy with tourists. We got a wheelbarrow and tried to offload the fish. It took Cody and I three heaves to get it out of the boat and into the wheelbarrow. Turns out, it weighed 109 lbs! So, the next four hours we spent cleaning the bloody boat, butchering fish, and vacuum packaging it using Val's little Food Saver machine. The back deck of my boat turned into a little food packaging operation. While Cody and I were tending to all that, Val and Connor took the little dinghy up the bay to the big Safeway store and bought some dry ice. So, we'll bring the fish, you bring the Chardonnay!
That was our day. Oh, yeah, we saw more humpbacks today too. God is so good and has blessed us with so much beauty and adventure while keeping us safe, happy, and comfy. Thank you all for yor notes and prayers. We love to hear from you.
I think we'll stay here for a couple of days. It's supposed to blow and I've got some business to tend to. So, call or e-mail...our phones work here great and I get WiFi right on the boat. I like this office!
Blessings, all.
As we entered the entrance of Grenville Channel, we saw two huge cruise ships. We sailed right beside one of them for about 15 minutes…we both cruise at the same speed…about 22-24 knots.
Before we found our little cove to anchor in for the night, we set out our shrimp and crab pots. We ended up in a little quite nookie called Outer Cove. After we got settled, Val prepared a lovely dinner of Cod fish and fresh caught Dungeness Crab, the first of the season. It was soooo good! 
Cody worked on his home schooling. Val was cooking some exotic seafood recipe. Connor and I went fishing and put out the crab pot. We had a blast and caught one fish after another, albeit they were small. We came back with four keepers and were out there about an hour, which is a pretty good attention span for Connor.
It was a great day. Here in Furry Cove, on day 3, our trip odometer says we are 297 nautical miles from Orcas Island. (For you land-lubbers, you can add 15% for statue miles.) With full fuel, water, and all Val’s cookbooks, we’re only getting a cruising speed of about 22 knots, down from 25. Couple that with fog, we’re spending more time cruising and less time exploring than I hope, but we had three great days, made three great crossings and now we can slow our pace a bit. We’re ready for that! Thank you, Lord, for a great trip so far!
I wrote the above last night...this morning, after pulling two crabs out of the trap, we sailed up Fitz Hugh Sound, cut through Gun Boat Pass and are doing some provisioning and communications it Shearwater Marine Resort before sailing again for a while. All is well in our world; how about yours?
We messed around in Nanaimo and didn't head out until about 3:30. We were well aware of a military practice zone called Whiskey Golf north of Nanaimo so we checked the radio to see if it was active. Both Val and I heard that it was active until 200. So, we take the shortcut through it. At the very moment Val asked why there were no other boats in sight, I commented that there was a war ship coming at us and a small boat rapidly approaching! Lights flashing, we pulled over realizing something was wrong and it was probably our fault! I think the 200 we heard on the radio was not 2 o'clock but was 2000 military time or 8PM. Yikes. The folks at Winchelsea Control guided me out of the warship's path pronto and out of the zone! What a stupid mistake on my part! I guess, I need to pray not only that we won't hit anything but that nothing would hit (or fire upon) us!! We all had a good laugh except Cody, who slept through the whole thing! (See the war ship below and it's ranger chase boat.)
Yesterday, we saw our first real clouds since we got to WA. Today, at lunch, it started to rain and it's been raining ever since. The locals said they haven't seen rain in many weeks. Oh well, let's get it over with now and pray for sunshine!
So, here we are in Campbell River, 137 nautical miles from Orcas Island....a good day and ahead of schedule. If anyone knows of a kind of "mapquest" picture to show you our progress, send me a link or something. I've tried taking pictures of a map but that doesn't work very well.
Seymor Rapids is quite an interesting passage. We'll time our passing at slack tomorrow morning. Then, it's Johnstone Strait, a notoriously windy passage. We'll go as far as we can...the winds are supposed to kick up early in the afternoon. So, we'll see.
